aluminum. Holes were drilled and
tapped for the No. 6 screws for the
cutter plate. Half-inch clearance holes
were drilled for the cutter wheel bearing
bolts. At the other end, 5/32-inch holes
were drilled and tapped for the screws
that hold down the bearing plate.
Cutter Plate—The cutter plate
holds the cutting wheels. The cutter
wheels I used are replacement parts
for tubing cutters. I bought mine at
Princess Auto (part number 8045215).
The blades of the cutting wheels
should be 3/8 inch above the base
plate, which I accomplished through
the use of 3/16-inch aluminum and
an AN960-10 washer. The cutter plate
should be cut with an arc slightly larger
than the filter to provide clearance
for the oil filter can. The 5/32-inch
holes for the cutter wheel bolts were
drilled and tapped for AN3 bolts. Also,
clearance holes were drilled for the
No. 6 hold-down screws. The cutter
bearing bolts were jammed with
AN365-10 nuts and hold the tolerance
for easy turning of the cutters. A 1/2-
inch hole in the base plate provides
clearance for the jam nuts. Half-inch
high-density plastic was used for the
bearing ( 3 inch by 1 inch) and pressure
plates ( 3 inch by 1-1/2 inch).
Bearing Plate—The bearing plate
houses the threaded rod that provides
the pressure on the filter. A 13/64-
inch hole through the bearing plate,
threaded for 1/4 inch by 20 inches,
captures the threaded rod. Two 3/16-
inch holes were drilled for screws that
anchor the bearing plate to the base
plate. A purchased handle (Lee Valley
00M55.10) with a jam nut was attached
to the other end of the threaded rod.
Pressure Plate—The pressure
plate puts pressure on the filter, which
in turn contacts the cutting wheels. A
1/2-inch deep by 1/4-inch hole in the
pressure plate receives the threaded
rod and provides pressure on the filter
can. An arc should be cut into the
pressure plate to match the 2-5/8-inch
outside diameter of the filter.
To use the cutter, simply place the
filter into the recess and snug up the
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