At this point, move the prop and relax the pressure
on the rope inside the cylinder so you can remove the
rope. This is when you begin to sweat, thinking that the
engine will never run again, but be assured this is just
another step in the process. Tie a 24-inch long piece of
nylon or strong cotton cord to the end of the valve and
position it inside the valve groove so the cord will not
slip off when pulled. I spray the valve with Kroil or any
other good penetrating oil and prepare the valve to be
pushed into the cylinder. Putting the valve into the cylinder will probably take a little force. I use a brass punch
and a small hammer, carefully keeping the punch away
from the walls of the valve guide, and drive the valve into
the cylinder so it falls to the bottom of the cylinder. Feed
about 12 inches of the cord into the cylinder through the
guide so if the cord is frayed, you will still have some
strong cord inside the cylinder away from harm.
Using a gun cleaning kit (a .45-caliber brush works
great) and the chemical that comes with the kit for cutting carbon, clean the valve guide very well, but not too
much. This chemical will attack brass, so spray through
and around the guide (inside the cylinder as well) with
carb cleaner. Don’t spare the cleaner, and clean it well.
When you are sure that all of the cleaner is washed out
After 10 to 12 feet of rope is inserted into the cylinder, turn the prop so that the rope bunches up behind the
face of the valve and pops it unstuck. Notice the valve is no longer in the stuck position and is even with the
intake valve.
{quiet}
