holds and stabilizes the jig (a squeeze clamp
helped), the other holds the saw. The jig can be
made right- or left-handed. It’s wide enough that
you can get a comfortable grip on both the jig and
saw, without interference between the two, but
narrow enough to fit the wing bay.
The same jig was used on the bench to cut new
pieces to be glued on, so the angle matches perfectly.
As always, the jig is an aid and doesn’t replace
some acumen with the tool itself. The trick to hand
saws is a nice linear stroke (think pool cue), a firm
but not tight grip with some down pressure forward and no down pressure on the return (opposite
if you’re using an eastern saw that cuts on the pull).
Practice on cap strip material before heading in to
your wing. It’s rare to find a saw whose cutting
geometry is designed for rip sawing (even if it’s
supposedly for that purpose), so keep that in mind.
I made half a dozen strokes, removed the saw, and
manually cleared sawdust from the saw and kerf.
Took more time, but prevented an excessive
buildup that promotes binding and frustration.
It’s a very narrow purpose jig but worked
perfectly. It could be made more elaborately
with changeable angles and width capability, or
made with staples alone and be taken apart and
reused elsewhere.
